March Mutterings

We get a number of identifiable seasons here.  Tourist season, whale season, hurricane season, dry season, lobster season.  I guess we can say we're well-seasoned? Anyhow, right now it's The Season when a lot of the local businesses are at their busiest.  We've been doing a lot of driving around the island recently, and have noticed everything seems to be in full swing. As remote as we are, the increased seasonal population of Provo only touches  us when we're out for groceries or running errands. We hit restaurants early and are usually settling up about the time the last table fills. We know to do our grocery shopping on sunny days when the temporary population bloom in Grace Bay is concentrating on the beach and water sports. The lines at the registers are directly proportional to cloud cover. This has been mathematically described as Cr > Cl in the presence of Co (coconut oil). And it's true.   Compare the smell of coconut oil in the aisles of the grocery store on cloudy vs sunny days...  Well, okay, I admit it's not very scientific.  Nor peer reviewed.  I withdraw it.  Tell the Nobel people it was a false alarm again.

Other than those exciting times when we step away from our dreary existence to entertain temporary seasonal visitors from up north, life out here pretty much follows the same general paths through the winter days. We get storms, and we get good days. Often at the same time.

We didn't fully understand the geographical ramifications of this piece of property when we bought it.  We loved the view, of course. We anticipated the wind.  We  underestimated the effect of it, but we are learning.  Reading "20 kts." during an internet search is not quite the same experience as living in 20 knots.  The wind holds flies against the screens until they become flews. (Flews is the past tense of flies.... right?) And we knew when we bought this place that with the view of the boatyard and the Caicos Bank to the south we would quite often have something interesting to look at. And we do. We get to watch a lot of different boats come and go. We are also close enough to the departure path of the airport that we get to see a lot of air traffic. We like that.  Ospreys and kestrels are constant visitors. And sometimes we spot sea life. Here's an example of that for you:

See that dark blob just off the beach, where I drew the arrow?  It's not unusual  to look out over the Caicos Bank and see something large moving.  We've seen bottle nose dolphins, sharks,  a few big fish we haven't identified, and a lot of rays swimming along these south facing shores.  We've seen turtles on the banks, but not usually near the rocks here. They are very common in the passages between islands in places like Leeward and Pine Cay.  It's not always glaringly apparent what we're looking at if it doesn't surface for air, but that in itself is a good clue.  There are other clues. Sharks swim by flexing back and forth. Dolphins and other aquatic mammals swim by wiggling up and down, when you think about it.  Even us human aquatic mammal wanna-be types don't have a swim stroke that mimics any side to side spinal flex motions like fish do.  Turtles stop and stick their heads up. Rays swoop along the bottom like a stealth fighter flying low in terrain following mode.  It looks to be a little on the large side for a typical local stingray but I just read that they get up to 150 cm across.  So it's possible.  That's easily a hundred meters away. We've got sting rays, manta rays, and eagle rays here.  We've seen them leaping completely out of the water.  Local boatmen have told us that they do that a lot when storms are coming.  I think we've been too busy to go look, when we've been under those circumstances.

We've been back to Sherlock Walkin's marina at Leeward Going Through several times recently.  It hasn't changed much lately.  "Hasn't changed much lately" could be a mantra for a lot of places in the southern Bahamas and vicinity.  Sometimes that's a comfortable thing.  It hasn't been a stable thing on this part of Providenciales for some years now.   We  stopped for a few moments while passing through.  We wanted to  visit the former location of our slip here.  Dooley seemed to think there was something familiar about it.

This is a very familiar view, in some ways.  We kept our first boat, Cay Lime, here right up until early September '08.  If you've read some of the old archives from that period in this blog, you'll recognize this next view.  You have to imagine a floating dock extending out to where the boat is anchored, with power boats tied up to both sides between small floating spurs.  Our boat was in the second slip on the left.  Nice spot although a little tricky getting into  during max flood or ebb with a strong east wind.

Here's a link to what this very spot looked like the afternoon Tropical Storm Hanna decided to stop, turn hard to the south, and become Hurricane Hanna, the deadliest storm of the 2008 Hurricane Season. Sure thumped us pretty good, that one did.  There were a dozen boats on this dock.  They all got smashed when it let go.  I still feel like falling to the floor sobbing and rending my garments in anguish when I think about it.  Well not really.  I thought about doing that but the whole sackcloth, gnashing  and ashes thing turned La Gringa totally off.

I took this photo only because we do get emails from time to time asking us about the status of the restaurant in Leeward.  Not as often these days, as people become accustomed to these kinds of unfinished projects.  And other small business men have stepped into the gap to fill some of the economic opportunity. There are a couple of small food and beverage vendors nearby.  It will be a great spot for a restaurant and bar. There is no doubt about that whatsoever. Any bank with any cents whatsoever would finance it.  So why has it sat uncompleted for several years now?  I'm sure there's a good reason.  But we don't know what it is.  Insane projects nearby seemed to take no time at all.

While we were looking around the marina we noticed that there have in fact been some changes. The entrance way looks spiffier than I remember it.  And there are some new planters defining what was a confusing open parking area.  This helps organize it into rows. Gives an aiming point to those drivers who seem to always park wherever their vehicle first comes to a stop.

We were driving a rented Jeep around for a few days.   The two door model.  We parked it next to a Defender 90 down at Leeward.  Interesting to see the differences between the type we've been driving and the new Jeeps.   They do have some things in common.  Solid front axle assemblies, coil springs.  I guess maybe form follows function in automotive evolution.

There are some more new planters along the front of the office building at Leeward.  This is where the marina and several of the fishing and sailing charter companies maintain offices. Sail Provo, Catch the Wave, and Leeward Marina all have offices here. I think the planters add a nice touch.

Looking out toward Bird Rock, there's a good view of the Conch Farm facility. There's still some hurricane remnants lying about.  Parts of these structures were in the parking lot next door after the last one. Rebuilding and cleaning up is a slow process.

The circular pens are for raising conch.

We were happy to see Cay Lime temporarily tied up at the marina. This is one of the  sections of floating dock that was rebuilt after the storms.  We noticed that Preacher has added a bimini top to the boat.   Good idea around here.  This sun will eat you alive, especially out on the water.  Having even a little shade to sit under makes a huge amount of difference.  With shade and the breeze, it never really feels uncomfortably hot here.

 I haven't been writing much about Preacher lately.  That's not by design.   We just haven't been spending much time in the Leeward Going Through area lately, and that's his main hangout. We haven't been pulling our boat down to that end of the island in recent times, because of our vehicle tow situation. Thus the bus is a bust with my hearty distrust of fatal sheet metal with deep cuss-ed rust.

In early March we made two trips out to Pine Cay with Preacher and  his boat.  Skipping along at 45 miles per hour in about eight inches of water is still pretty exhilarating.  I took several photos on the first trip over,  but most of them were too blurry to use here. There was just the three of us and I think Preacher was showing off.  I was holding on with both hands. It was windy.  Cloudy.  We got drenched in a squall that day.  Not very photogenic. On the second trip we had better weather. There were also five of us in the boat so it wasn't quite as lightly loaded, but still a thrilling ride.  I think Andros Boatworks should send their prospective flats boat customers down here for a ride in one of their boats.  Preacher should be their agent.

He'd  been out diving that morning and had a pile of conch to clean. He likes to cook native dishes and was treating us all to breakfast.  I forget what we were talking about.  Something serious and profound, no doubt.  Could have been hull design. Sailing. Sunken treasure. Local Politics. Airplanes. Diving. Fishing.  We were talking about fishing for the big Mutton Snapper. La Gringa and I intend to get back into fishing again, but not the same way we were into it the first few years we were here.  We want to concentrate more on the  local subsistence style that produces steady protein, and leave the big lure, deep sea fishing excitement to those guys with that hobby.   We're moving more toward sail boat living, and our fishing style should adapt to that.  I don't think S/V Twisted Sheets would be all that great at trolling for wahoo, so a lot of our future fishing will be at anchor or from small boats in shallow water. We like snapper, and have seen some really nice ones caught on the Banks.  It has something to do with the phases of the moon.   Preacher has promised to educate us.

We also haven't been getting out to Pine Cay as much as we'd like to.  Even living just a few miles and three islands away, that trip takes a boat or airplane.  We're always happy when we have the time and excuse to go out there.   Just coming into the landing at the marina there, and shutting down the outboard, feels almost like stepping into another country.  The only powered modes of transportation on Pine Cay are the electric golf carts, and the overall silence is nice.  Suddenly, the sound of the warm breeze ruffling the Gumbo Limbo trees is all you notice nearby, with the distant sound of waves crashing out on the reef. We can feel the relaxation settling in immediately.  Well, coming from a couple islands over it's a quick change for us.  We don't have as far to go as some. We've watched the process for years now, and some people need a day or two to completely downshift.  A week's about right to truly find neutral.   This is a great place for that.

After Preacher finished up  cleaning and rinsing his freshly caught conch (above) we went to the home where some visiting friends were staying.  Preacher handled everything, tenderizing the conch, and mixing up one of his specialties...

Conch and grits.  Turks and Caicos Islander style breakfast at it's finest.   We went back for more.  I don't think there were any leftovers.

The chef took a bow, as well he should.  I think we were discussing something else by that time. We had a lot of catching up to do.  There is a lot going on in the Turks and Caicos Islands at the moment. The government is transitioning from direct UK control back to elected officials. It's great to get Preacher's perspective on some of it.  His loyalties are well established, and he knows all the players.  He grew up with them. We don't vote here, being US Citizens, but of course we are keenly interested in the politics that affect us as residents.

 

Day trips to the other islands mean an early return, so we really didn't see much of Pine Cay on this one. Nobody really likes to boat around here in the dark. Back on Provo we had the rented Jeep. We could only keep it for another day so we decided to take a trip up to the other end of the island.  We hadn't been up to Malcolm Beach in quite a while.  The road over that part of the island has some unimpeded  views out across the 'bush' to the reef.

We had heard that improvements had been made to the road here.  We were actually looking forward to really trying the rented Jeep out, and we knew this road was typically one of the steepest and most rutted on the island.  However, the rumors are true.  Well, not entirely true.  What we actually heard standing around the bar at South Side Marina was that 'they fixed the road'.  I'm reminded that fixed is a fluid, and flexible term here.  In this case, the worst of the ruts gouged into the solid rock road surface have been filled in with concrete, and all in all, it's now actually better than the road we drive every day.  This one is certainly more fun.  Especially in a rented jeep.

Our first impressions of Malcolm Beach still linger in our memories as indicative of what to expect when we get to the end of the road.  Eight years ago it was just a rough trail along the coast.   It's all changed now, and has been like this for some years.  The road ends in a small parking lot, with an elevated wooden shelter and steps to the beach.  It's nice.  When we first came here the road turned right at this point, and we drove down the ruts until we found a break in the vegetation that we liked.  Each one was a shady picnic site.    We noticed that there is a security camera setup on a sturdy wooden post here now.    I wonder who monitors it and what the response time might be.

Dooley ran around this wooden platform several times when we got here.  He looked like a small pylon racer, going fast and turning left.  He did several loops and then zoomed right back down the steps.

He gets this intense look on his face when he does these things.  I have to wonder what complicated set of formula must be running through his little skull as he careens around and around on the very edge of losing control...

The view here remains spectacular, as I'm sure it's been for a very long time. This is the view straight out from the beach. There are two SCUBA dive charter boats anchored off  the steep drop off.  Right out there where the ocean starts getting serious about its blue mood.

I noticed the break in the shore rock here on the right, and the unnatural underwater pile of rocks.  I saw the sand there and was thinking it might be a place to wade into the water barefooted. But it doesn't extend out very far.  Something man made to investigate there.

This is the view  up the beach.  Now, I don't really know why I called that direction up the beach.     I guess I imagine some general convention regarding up north, vs down south.  Up the beach compared to along the beach.  I'm up for looking into it further as long as I can get down with the definitions.

 This view to the south might be considered down the beach.

But in this case down beach leads to very much up scale, if you know what I mean.   That group of buildings down past the little point is the western end of the Amanyara resort.  From that aforementioned little point it looks like this:

Can't really see much of the resort from here.  That's the main beach, and also where the  charter dive boats pick up hotel guests who have booked a dive with them.   We've never actually visited the resort itself.  But if we could win our choice of a weekend getaway to any place on Provo, this would be the place. Don't get the idea that photos of the grounds are forthcoming any time soon.  

I thought this was as good a place as any to try the little Nikon's panorama mode again.  It works okay but needs a really big format to view it.  This is probably why I don't take more of them.  It's one of those "Oh  yeah...NOW I remember..." moments.  I'm starting to think that 180 degree panoramas are a gimmick, and 360 degree panoramas must be targeted toward an audience of owls. Or accident victims, past and future.

We wandered up and down the beach for a while, as we tend to do.  The beach here is like the water.  It's very clean. There's not much flotsam here to pick through. And the water is beautiful.  I know I've been using words like 'crystal clear' and such when I write about the ocean here.  It's difficult to describe without using the same old words for really clear water.  The photos show you some of it, but even this doesn't accurately represent how clear it is.

You can go from having dry sand beach to  a thousand feet of water  underneath you  in just 800 yards of movement here.    Some of the best diving within easy reach of Grace Bay is here, and it's usually somewhat protected from the east wind.   Nice.

There are a couple of very large inflated rafts moored off of  Amanyara's beach.  We didn't see anyone using them while we were there.  But hey, it IS winter time here.  Not everybody braves these fierce Atlantic weather conditions.

There really isn't much in the way of collectible junk washed up here. This part of Providenciales is basically tucked up into the lee of the trade winds and the current.  Floating things tend to keep going and not come onto shore here.  Did you notice the way all the boats are riding, sitting on their anchors?  That's pretty much the prevailing conditions here.

 There are are numerous marine fossils in the rock. And walking barefoot is not unpleasant if you don't stub a toe.  The rock is smooth and the sand is soft.

We came back by that break in the shore rock that is near the little beach shelter.  It's also right in line with the road.  It's easy to see the two dark objects that emerge from under that line of rocks.

And a close look reveals them to be two cables.    I couldn't be sure what kind of cables they are, but I would assume communication. It's pretty modern looking urethane so I'd guess fiber optic. I'm puzzled as to where they might go.   They leave the beach here on a heading of 282 degrees.   There's nothing in that direction.  Mayaguana is much more to the north, and West Caicos is to the south.   The cables are marked on the nautical chart, but not as to their destination.  On the chart they are drawn from the beach and continue for  a short distance to the west before disappearing into the deep ocean at the point where they no longer concern boaters.  Kind of like in real life.

We never get tired of looking at the water here.  It's interesting to us even on bad days.  And we've had a few bad ones.   And on good days it's just amazing. If you ever visit the Turks and Caicos Islands, the chances are that you'll fly in from Miami to Providenciales. If there's a choice of seats on the plane,  I'd pick a window seat on the right side.  You'll see plenty of reef, and the water all the way past West Caicos.  Including this spot right here:

Every time we've come out here we've told ourselves that we need to plan a trip specifically for snorkeling. There are spots where one can walk out barefoot over soft sand until the water depth exceeds one's draft.   We've just got to come back here with the underwater camera.  The people on the boats in that video are diving on places with names like  Shark Hotel, The Crack and Hole in the Wall.   And just past that, the water is a mile deep. Floating on the surface in a mile of clear ocean is always such an otherworldly experience.  If you watch long enough, eventually you will see large shapes deep below you. Just on the very edge of your vision.  And every now and then you'll see something you can immediately identify, close enough to be clear enough to be just enough to send a little jolt of adrenaline though your system. And then it swims away and disappears from your view into that deep blue mystery that transforms turquoise into something darker than blue ever gets. And suddenly the ocean seems a little bigger than it did a moment ago.  And I always feel a little smaller.

"It was the Law of the Sea, they said. Civilization ends at the waterline. Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top."  

Hunter Thompson

Dooley the Digger immediately seemed to feel right at home in the rear seat of the Jeep.   It's a good size for him.  He can see in every direction.  I guess the day at the beach wore the poor old fellow out, though.  He was snoring by the time we hit smooth pavement again. And I have to tell you, this little Jeep is a lot more comfortable to ride in than either of our badly beaten Defenders.  To be fair to Land Rover, it's probably not cricket to compare a six year old suspension with a one year old suspension on these roads. It's also probably safe to say that this rental Jeep spends most of it's time here on the pavement.  Our Defenders definitely do not.  I guess we can say the rear seat on the Wranglers has now been Dooley Approved.

We've had Jeep on the brain a lot lately.  We've already had both front and rear tow hitches imported and waiting for ours to arrive.  We only rented this Wrangler for two days.  Then we moved into the cheapest rental we could find for the long haul.  Have you ever heard of a Fiat Panda? Strangest transmission that I've ever seen.   I'll take some photos if anyone is interested.  Or bets on whether it lasts a month on our daily drives.

 his is a photo I recently took of   a little Piper PA38 Tomahawk, right after it touched down at Providenciales.

And I was taking the photos because La Gringa was in the pilot seat, taking her fourth flying lesson.   Dooley the Distracting and I sit in a car alongside the runway with an air-band VHF radio and a Kindle e-reader while she's up flying.   Very relaxing way to spend an hour or so.  For me, anyway.  I'm the one comfortably on the ground with a radio and a good book.

This is a nice place to learn island flying, too. The major airport here is not that busy for most of the time, and it's almost two miles long and brand new.  All nice and smooth and up to current standards.  She snapped this photo  while circling out over Chalk Sound one day during a lesson.     I don't know how that little Piper two seater was able to get behind that X-wing fighter... but the inescapable truth is that the little Tomahawk landed safely that day.  No X-wing fighters made it to the runway at Provo....

Just kidding.  La Gringa says it's a chip in the windscreen.   Just my imagination.... running away with me.

I've been keeping a steady string of DIY projects going.  Usually several at once.  Most of them are probably not even worth mentioning here.   Maybe one recent one and only because it's probably an unusual scavenging of materials.   A few years back I picked up a mangled road sign in the bushes here. I cut off the bent up part and ended up with a semicircle of aluminum plate.  I am working on a project that needs a smooth flat piece of aluminum, and I cut one out of this old half a road sign.  I had to scrape, saw, sand, etc. I don't know what kind of adhesive they use to put the reflective surface on these signs, but I sure wish I had some of it.  

It took a while to get it smooth and flat.  I used the electric sander to get the rough surface flat.   The dark gray areas are where the metal is still low.  The shiny stuff is the high parts.  I milled it on flat glass at the end.

That's one of the last parts I needed to complete this little 3D printer kit.  I still need to come up with a way to clamp this to the headed bed, but I'm getting closer to being able to make plastic and ABS parts.

I use a lot of aluminum plate here these days. It's generally good stuff  if you  work within its limitations and keep it out of contact with other metals.  I've taken another piece of our storm destroyed HD satellite dish and along with the strap from a diving face plate, I've put together another Dog Cam mount for Dooley the Director. I wanted something that he could wear on our walks that could handle a GPS or a camera. I didn't want to make him have to wear the entire life jacket with the other Dooley Cam mount. Running around looking like a miniature version of the Great Pumpkin wasn't cutting it.  I think it embarrassed both of us.  So I came up with a more canine friendly mount.

This one is like a jockey's saddle.  But unlike a thoroughbred horse, I can't find a spot that doesn't bounce on this dog.   I tried showing him videos of squirrels and cats, so that he'd get an idea about how to run smoothly... we wanted the camera to flow... But I learned not to show him videos of squirrels or cats as good examples.   He got the wrong idea.   He thought we were watching a hunting video.  At least he seems okay with this mount arrangement.   He didn't seem to be too upset on a trial run we did.   I explained how this was going to work, and I'm sure he was carefully thinking about all my instructions on how to walk level and smoothly.  I could see he was paying attention.  He listens to every word I say.  I could tell that he committed my entire speech to memory...

This brings us pretty much up to date at this point.   We were just over at the shipyard and a lot of progress has been made in rewiring the S/V Twisted Sheets.   A lot of the old tangled wiring is gone now, replaced by heavy cables, simplified runs and marine-rated switches.  And I have a brand new shiny helm station to replace one that gave me a whole lot of trouble last year. These are huge improvements to the boat.  And we've got more in mind once we get her back in the water where I can get access.  We're estimating another month in the yard. And then we plan to start doing some sailing.

We haven't been in position to take any outstanding sunset photos lately.  I thought this one was mildly interesting only because the reflection is crisper than the actual image of the sun.

Summer Sunday Sojourn

We were hoping for some really memorable photos for this 250th post in this silly web-log thing. (You did know that's where the word 'blog' came from, right? And so ends the educational portion of our program today...)

Anyhow, up until Sunday all I really had that was new were some local 'boat-in-trouble' type photos, and a bunch of DIY stuff from inside the garage. Not really very exciting. Pretty ho-hum, actually. And I am really leery about wishing too hard for dramatic photos when we are in the beginning of hurricane season. I mean, I'm not all that superstitious... but years of working offshore have also made me cautious in what I wish for. Is that superstitious? It's not the same as never allowing bananas on a boat because they are bad luck. I never understood that one. Hey, years ago it was considered bad luck for a woman to step on a boat. These days it just means that some changes are going to be made. Not necessarily a bad thing. But before I top load this post with too many words, here's a new sunrise photo:



So with the now traditional La Gringa photo of a nice tropical sunrise behind us, I can get around to telling y'all what we did on Sunday. We decided to go on a picnic, and to give our new GoPro Hero HD™ camera another try. Our picnics almost always mean a boat trip. The wind was blowing from the east on Sunday, and the Caicos Bank looked a little too choppy for the relaxed frame of mind we were looking for. We don't mind some wind when we are in the mood for fast, wet sailing, but we were seeking 'mellow' on Sunday. So we decided to duck up into the lee of Water Cay. There are usually plenty of isolated, undisturbed places along the beach to enjoy on Water Cay. That's because the only way to get there is by boat. Or swimming. We haven't tried swimming to a picnic yet but I sure wouldn't rule it out for a future post.

Our entire route Sunday was only a little over ten miles round trip as the seagull flies, so we took the Hobie Tandem Island. Of course one never travels in a straight line for the entire round trip in a sailboat, so we probably covered a lot more ground than ten miles. But this was the route without all the tacks and gybes and such:



I mentioned the GoPro camera. We bought this a couple months ago, thinking it would be ideal for these fixed mount, action videos and photographs that we like to do. We got a whole bag full of accessory mounting doodads for it. And we had already tried to get video from the top of the Hobie mast a few weeks ago. We were disappointed. The waterproof case fogged up inside, and all the video after about 20 minutes was useless. That was bad enough, but we also had to admit that the 20 minutes of video that was usable was pretty much useless, too. Boring.

SO, this time we made some changes. We reset the camera so that instead of taking video, it took a single snapshot every ten seconds until the battery died. The GoPro's plastic housing includes two different back plates. One of these back plates has two holes in it, which allows air to circulate. I was nervous about putting a no-longer-waterproof camera on the top of the mast. We have enough confidence in the boat that we don't anticipate flipping it over, but we also recognize that.... well..... poo happens. And even if we didn't somehow put the top of the mast underwater, we worried bout rain squalls. But in the end we decided that a camera that couldn't live in our world was probably best put out of its misery early, anyhow. So we went for it. First, the open back DID solve the fogging issue. And a photo every ten seconds.... well... that needs some more thought. I just had to sort through over 1200 photos. Ouch. And you can see how many I am actually using out of that 1200. Not many. This whole GoPro thing still needs some re-thinking, I think. But then I thought that before, too.

But here's one of the first ones, not long after stepping the mast and while launching the boat from Sherlock Walkin's marina down at Leeward:



I am sure that the people who designed this camera have some reason for this fish-eye lens effect. But for the life of me, I have yet to figure out what that reason or advantage is. I find it enormously distracting, myself. So, I am going to intersperse the GoPro mast cam photos with some we took with our old standbys, the Olympus Tough 8010 and the Pentax W80. I won't bore you with the 200 or so GoPro images the mast cam took getting out of Leeward Going Through (unless you really want to see them). We were pretty happy to get around the corner of Little Water Cay between the rain squalls.



We scooted up the beach in a relaxed and leisurely manner in the intermittent sunshine and despite the random threats the squalls were making. We've got a new respect for squalls since that last French Cay trip.

We really like sailing along close to the beach at Water Cay. We never know what we might see washed up on the beach. This time we noticed that someone has made at least three stacks of rocks along the shore near the wreck of an old barge. We sailed in close to get a photo.



We were looking for a spot in the shade of one of the little rock cliffs, but this time of year the sun is beating straight down and there isn't much shade at mid-day. We finally found a spot that looked good from the water, and we hopped out of the boat and hauled it up on the beach:



This is the little spot we chose. We figured we had a good chance of finding a soft place to sit and some nice shade under this little Casuarinas tree. We had an added bonus in that the top of the cliff exposed us to the breeze that would have been blocked by the rocks if we'd stayed down on the sand. We were probably trespassing, come to think of it. Whoops. Sorry. We didn't leave a mess, if that counts for anything.

I really liked this tree-on-the-rock image, so there will be a number of different photos of it from different angles. Hopefully you'll see at least one image you like.



Dooley the Devious immediately saw the possibilities of our intended picnic spot and he went up to check it out first.



Here's another angle, from up on top of the line of little limestone cliffs. That's Pine Cay and Ft. George Cay off in the distance:



I have also discovered that I can use some image processing software to take out the 'fish eye' distortion of the GoPro camera. It seems to move the distortion to the near field, so if I level the horizon, I warp the boat. Oh well. Here's a photo with the horizon flattened, and with La Gringa setting up our lunch under the neighborhood tree:



The image is skewed because, well, the camera is 18 ft. up a mast, which is on a boat leaning over as it sits on the slope of a steep beach.

The ground under the tree was covered with a thick blanket of soft Casuarinas needles. I know they look like pine needles, and this tree is sometimes known as an Australian Pine, but it's not a pine tree. We were grateful for the shade, the soft blanket, and the breeze. Dooley the Diligent made sure there was nothing hiding in the tree. At least, I think that's what he was doing. I could be wrong. He could have been making a mental bet with himself about how far up that tree he could reach if he drank all our water and stood on a rock and...... well..... never mind. He has been known to entertain some lofty ambitions. I think he tells the local dogs that he's a lawyer from New Jersey. And that's just wrong. He's actually from Pennsylvania.



This worked out to be just about the perfect place for a picnic on this particular summer afternoon.



It's not that easy to describe how peaceful this spot was. Nobody else was on the beach in either direction for as far as the eye could see. It was pretty much like having the entire island to ourselves. We had a good view, shade, and the cool breeze. Maybe one of La Gringa's videos would explain the whole ambiance a little better:



(music is 'Guitar Romance' by Armik)

As I took that photo above the video, I saw something rolling up in the surf down the beach about 50 yards. So I took another shot to get that in the frame, too. I was pretty sure I knew what it was. At least, I hoped I was right about that. The alternative was kinda ugly to think about.



Looking back to the south you can tell that this beach is never crowded. There is another boat anchored off that small point almost a mile away. Not bothering us at all. Now the clouds..well that's a different worry. Remember, we have this new camera at the top of an 18 ft. mast with the back of it exposed to the elements. This is to keep it from fogging up this time. No fogging is good, but filling up with rain water would kind of negate all the positives from the lack of fog. We were really hoping to avoid any rain showers, despite the cooling effect the squalls have on the ambient temperature. Which has been in the high 80's by the way. I think we have seen 90 degree outside air temperature maybe once or twice this summer, so far. It rarely gets above that here. And even when it is 90 degrees outside, the trade winds make it feel much cooler. All you really need to be comfortable is shade.



The boat traffic was pretty sparse for a sunny Sunday. It was Father's Day, and I would have thought there would be more boating going on. The day-charter Atabeyra came by close enough to see what we were up to with our seemingly unattended and funny looking yellow plastic boat beached there in an isolated location:



That old rum runner is an interesting boat, but I like the view better when there's nothing on the horizon except ocean.



I took one more photo behind the visual line of the beach so you could see what is behind the cliffs on Water Cay. Just another uninhabited island. I think that out of the 40+ islands that officially make up the Turks and Caicos Islands, only 8 of them are described as being inhabited.



It was very nice relaxing in the shade but eventually lunch was over and we trooped on back down to the beach. We were keeping our eye on the line of squalls blowing through Leeward off in the distance, and figured out that if we killed a little time we could maybe let the worst of them get by before heading back. Like so many things in life, it's all about timing.



I've been putting some time in on the 'landscaping' at the house. For me that basically means another skirmish in my never ending fight with the weeds, and maybe moving some rocks around to see if they look better here than they did there. Sometimes they do.

Anyhow, right now I need some flat paving type rocks to use as a little walkway. I've been looking in the usual places on Providenciales, but have not been able to find just what I want. Then while I am climbing down to the beach on Water Cay I realized that I was literally surrounded by perfect paving stones. PILES of them:



Boy, wouldn't I love to have that entire pile teleported to the back yard of a certain house about three islands south of here. We may have to come back with the skiff and pick up a half dozen of these loose ones. Maybe from Pine Cay, where we know the property owners. Heck they'll just get ground into sand if we leave them here. In a hundred years or so.

Back down on the beach I decided to go and investigate the object that had been rolling in and out of the surf for the past hour. From closer up it was pretty easy to discern that it was in fact a coconut and did not have the hair or gold ear ring that my imagination had added from a distance.



Just another sea-going coconut on another deserted beach on another perfect day. Nothing special or unusual about that.



This gave me a chance to get yet another image of that tree from another angle. (Hey, I think it's a good visual and I am milking it for all the cool photos I can get.)



While we were lollygagging in the shade and investigating shipwrecked coconuts the mast cam was sitting up there snapping away every ten seconds. I liked this one because it caught a small wave just as it picked up the sand along the little underwater step that runs just a few feet off the low tide mark. Notice that the sand gets lifted by the wave, and stirred up, and falls right back into the same spot. It doesn't drift out and cloud up the rest of the water, like some sands that I won't mention by name on other beaches. How considerate is that?



You might also notice that the boat has been moved by the waves since we beached it. Or you might not. The big footprints are mine. The little footprints are La Gringa's. And the sixteen million little paw prints frenetically arranged in sets of four belong to you-know-who.

At this point we decided to go for a swim to cool off. And yes, this gave me yet one more camera angle on my favorite tree of the day. And a good shot my favorite boat, too. That little box up on the top of the mast is the GoPro camera.



By this time it was early afternoon and we knew we needed to start back. Time is always a factor when sailing to a schedule. But the squalls were lining up one after the other some five miles to our south, which was just where we needed to go. Seeing a particularly nasty looking rain storm clobbering our destination, we decided to delay our departure for awhile and explore along the beach a little. Not far from our picnic spot we saw this little collapsed sinkhole. Basically, the roof of one of the many small caves fell in. This left a little limestone bridge with an opening behind it.



This was an opportunity for a different sort of camera angle, so I climbed up on the top of the little cliffs again. That probably doesn't sound like much effort to you, sitting there in your nice air-conditioned computer reading spot with a nice comfy rug under your feet. Well, try climbing around this stuff barefooted a few times and you'll see what I am whining about.

I think I can already tell that I am not going to get any sympathy on this, am I?

Here's the little collapsed sinkhole from the top:



Climbing down into it, I found that it formed a delightfully shady little spot out of the sun. It's cooled by the surrounding limestone. It also made for some nice photos. I must have taken about a dozen of them. This is one of my favorites:



Looks like I needed to trim the ceiling. And move some rocks out of the living room.

We only walked about a hundred yards or so down the beach. We saw a number of these small caves in the limestone.



We also began to notice that Dooley the Devious was paying a whole lot of attention to the small holes in the rocks. More than usual. So La Gringa walked up to one of the smaller ones and looked inside, and discovered that a lot of them are taken up with seasonal nesting Tropic Birds.



We didn't want the dog to disturb the birds so we decided that was enough beach exploration for now. Besides, this beach is too clean for proper beach combing. Remember that photo of the waves picking up the sand that I posted up above? Well, that is essentially turning the sand over, many thousands of times a day. It keeps it really, really clean. But it's not someplace to find interesting stuff washed ashore, unless you like the isolated coconut. Big stuff like fishing nets wash ashore, but the small stuff gets taken back out by the tide. We have other beaches in mind for beach combing small stuff, and we'll show you a couple of the better ones in some future blog posts. But for now, we decided to take our chances with the squalls and head back to Leeward.



The mast cam caught us shoving the boat off the beach into the shallow water:



And a few seconds later, soaked to the armpits, away we go. Bye bye, tree:



The Go-Pro camera was at the right angle to catch a lot of beach photos on the way back. Hundreds of them, in fact. Once I got them all uploaded I started playing around to see if I could improve upon them by applying a thick coat of software. I'll show you an example. I'm interested in what you think about all this.

This is a photo taken by the GoPro as we sailed back, close along the beach. I am sure you can see the fish-eye distortion of not only the horizon, but also of the boat itself. It's not that banana-shaped in reality:



This is that exact same photo after applying a "115% fish eye correction" to it:



I'm not overjoyed about the resolution along the outer edge of the image or the distortion in the near field, where the boat is. The boat is not that wide. Although the dog is.

This is basically our second trip with this camera, and we're happy that we've finally got it working. I'm hoping that with some further experimentation we can improve upon these images. The view of the coral from up above should be really nice, on a clear water day. This was not a particularly clear water day, by the way. I realize it has the Mississippi River beat hands down for clarity, but for here this is a stirred up day. It gets much, much better than this. It's not uncommon for us to be able to see the bottom 80-100 ft. below us. We just need about three days of calm weather and the sun directly overhead. We'll keep an eye out for a good day to show you that. The camera on the mast should be good for that.

This is another day-charter excursion boat with a load of people having a picnic of their own. The boat to the right is the trimaran Minx, of which we have written before. I just realized that the phrase "have written before" is redundant, isn't it. I hate reading my own writing. I can never stop trying to change things. It's never finished, is it. It always needs improvement. Discouraging.



That photo catches two squalls passing through Leeward, with a nice window of clear weather between them. We had to decide whether to try for that, or to sail around wasting time until the next break.

We decided that sailing around wasn't actually wasting time. Far, far from it.

There is a dramatic change from the broken up island rock to the smooth sand here. This is called Donna Cut. At one time it was a separation between Water Cay and Little Water Cay. Hurricane Donna hit here in 1960 and changed the topography of these islands for a long time to come. All this sand from the Caicos Bank was washed through, and filled up the space between the two islands.



This is the turn around the southern end of Little Water Cay. A lot of people have been referring to this as "Iguana Cay", which makes some sense. It's absolutely loaded with iguanas. Dooley has been kicked off this island by park officials, by the way. He only wanted to play chase. He wasn't actually planning to eat those lizards. They were bigger than he was, anyhow. That's all I am going to say about that incident.



What a difference the angle of the sun makes with this camera. The photos looking forward toward the clouds all make the water look gray and uninviting. But looking back behind us, it's totally different. This is what the mast-cam sees looking back with the sail in the picture:



And the image looking forward with one of our other cameras just catches the edge of the squall we are ducking behind. That area in the middle where you cannot see the shore is being obscured by the rain. You may also notice there is no dog on the side of the boat nearest the thunder clouds. This is always the case.



The rest of this trip was pretty uneventful. We had a good run up through Leeward and even ran into our buddy Preacher at the marina. We got caught up with the local news. We had spent a week in the USA since the last time we saw Preacher a couple weeks ago. He is caught up in the political situation going on right now between the Turks and Caicos Government and the British. Most of the people here are following all this closely, and there are some strongly held opinions on how this country should be run. You can find out about all that if you do an internet search for either of the local newspapers. I try to keep the politics out of the blog.

We were in a hurry and real busy tacking our way up Leeward-Going-Through, so we didn't get a lot more photos of that trip.

This is the last of the over 1200 images that the GoPro recorded before the battery died. We were within sight of the marina. It's back behind that boat coming toward us from the left. So at an image every ten seconds, we got over four hours of battery life. One of the changes I want to make before the next GoPro experiment is to change the interval to one photo every thirty seconds.



Now we want to try something different. You've seen the still photos, and read the sequence of events for our picnic trip. La Gringa Suprema has put all the 1200+ still images into a 3 minute video. It's not really video I guess. More like the old early movie frames. You can follow along, sort of, and see how this whole four hour period went from the perspective of the GoPro camera. You can tell where we tacked the boat in and out to move into the wind, especially as we worked our way back into Leeward. We also tacked a few times to get closer to the beach on the way out. If you want to stop the video to look at a particular image, you can do that with the 'pause' button. Just like up town.



(music is 'Ketto' by Bonobo)

That's all I have from that trip. I had accumulated a few other photos since our last post, but nothing much to get excited about. I have scads of DIY stuff, of course, but don't want to overwhelm people with that. I know some of you have shown some interest in the little hoist I built inside the garage, so I'll show you how that's working out. I just did my first test project with it.

You may recall I wanted to be able to lift about 300 lbs or so straight up from the floor, with a boat winch. I want it primarily to be able to 'stack' both boats inside the garage during hurricanes. I haven't built the little frame I need to attach to the kayak trailer to lift it, but in the meantime I found another good use for the hoist. I lifted the outboard off the skiff with it.

I've been wanting to experiment with the jack plate setup on the skiff. I've had problems trimming it down the way I like it, and am semi-convinced that the weight of the motor has been levering the stern down and the bow up. The boat came with a six inch spacer between the transom and the jackplate. I wanted to see how it ran if I took that out. It looked like this, originally:



That puts the weight of the motor about a foot behind the transom. This is only an 18 ft. boat, and fairly light. That motor weighs 350 lbs, and it has a few more pounds added with steering, cabling, oil, etc. Plus the jackplate and extension. It would be well over 400 lbs total. That has to put some torque on the transom, and wants to lift the bow out of the water.

Here's my new home-made hoist lifting the Suzuki off the boat. It worked like a charm. The rope is a safety line. Just in case.



And this is the motor while being reattached to the boat without the six inch spacer. I also moved the jackplate up about an inch and a half.



The whole job took less than a leisurely hour. The hoist worked perfectly, and I now have no qualms about hanging the 300 lb kayak and trailer from it while moving the skiff underneath the kayak. Now we just need to take the skiff out and see how this change affected the performance and especially the trim. And if I desperately needed some more bow-down trim-for safety reasons you understand-well....I know just where a pile of nice flat ballast rocks is sitting on a deserted beach not too far from here...

The hoist is a success. I used some suggestions you guys made, and attached the free end of the cable up to the bolt holding the upper pulley. I can see this being useful for a number of things. It would hold the weight of a Land Rover motor, for example. Not that I ever hope to have to remove one, but one never knows, does one? Stranger things have happened.

There hasn't been much going on around the house lately. We just went through several weeks of extremely unsettled weather. This is not unusual for this time of year. As the summer sun heats the ocean, the rising moist air builds into some really dog-shattering thunderstorms. We had that big low pressure thing going on for a week south of Haiti, and that affected us. We feel bad for the people who just happened to schedule their one week vacation during one of the few rainy weeks of the year, but it happens. Maybe we could convince the local hotels they need to issue 'sunshine rainchecks' or something. Give people a break on the hotel rates for future visits when this visit got rained on. Or even a discount for rainy days. They could afford it, and it would make good marketing tools. Advertise a reduced rate for any day with more than 50% cloud cover. It wouldn't cost them much at all over the course of a year. (Susan, Val, and Sonya... are you guys listening?)

I'd try to get you some video footage of Dooley during a storm, but he shakes and vibrates so much that all the photos come out blurred. He's either terrified or he's a vampire, near as I can figure. Maybe I should try to get a photo of him in a mirror to be sure. I do know the little sucker is terrified of thunder. Like you wouldn't believe. We're going to try wrapping him in an Ace bandage the next time. This is after reading an ad for a compressing vest to aid doggie anxiety. I saw it in the airlines gadget catalog on our trip to Pittsburgh last week.

One day about two weeks ago we kept hearing a boat calling for a tow from the other side of West Caicos. We were interested in this, because as sailors, we often wonder why other sailors drop their anchor and radio for (expensive) help when they have engine trouble. We might be naive, but we sort of think that if it were us, we'd just hoist a sail or two and head on in. Broken motor and all . Isn't that the very purpose of having all those big sticks and canvas and ropes and stuff on the boat in the first place? To move it without a motor?

We never did find out the reason this boat wouldn't sail to Providenciales from West Caicos. We've made that trip in an inflatable kayak. We do know they spent the night out past West Caicos, offering to pay someone to come get them, and that the local Marine Police finally went out and towed them in the next morning. The boat looks all right to me, but as La Gringa pointed out.... it might be that they lost their electronics and were nervous about sailing among all these thousands of coral heads in unfamiliar water with no lights. That makes sense. I suppose.

But if so, that points out one of the dangers of relying too heavily on electronics surrounded by salt water. Japanese wrist watches with built in compasses aside, of course. Maybe I better shut up at this point.



Dooley the Disinterested was paying more attention to the pack of feral dogs barking it up in the salina than he was paying to this disabled boat.



It's not just the big complicated boats that break down, either. Since we have a ring side view of the major boat repair facility in the country, we get to see a lot of these kinds of things. Having a fair bit of experience with broken motorboats, we had some sympathy for this next guy. He had the top cover off of his outboard for a long time one afternoon, as he drifted slowly by in the longshore current:



This is a pretty typical design for the small local 'conch' boats. They rarely have radios on these boats. Most of them don't even have compasses. Not even on their wristwatches. Imagine that.

(Hey, do you guys know how to determine which way is south using a standard analog wristwatch? If you want to know, write us and I'll tell you. It can be useful.)

There's just something universal about the motions of a man yanking the starter rope on an outboard motor, isn't there? One glimpse, and some of us know exactly what he's going through.



He eventually did get it started, and limped off to the south with one hand on the tiller and the other on the choke. Just in time, too:



It's not much fun being inside one of these squalls in a small boat when things are going wrong. Heck, it's not much fun even when they're going right, come to think of it.

And for those of you who wrote to me after our last French Cay trip, I have purchased a compass for our own small boat. I don't want to be caught offshore again with no visibility trying to navigate with just a wristwatch compass. That's the kind of thing that's good for a nice "whew!" when it's over. Once.

But what I wanted to say is that if you have some ideas for blog post photos that you would like to see, please let us know and if it seems reasonable we would be happy to give it a try. Same thing goes for the videos. La Gringa is really getting into editing and putting sound tracks to the videos. As one last example in this post, yesterday I set up the GoPro outside to see what a 30 second time lapse of an approaching squall line would look like. La Gringa turned it into a movie and added some music. I thought it was pretty cool the way the clouds are going in two different directions at the end. Fun stuff to play with.



(music is 'Above the Clouds' by Little People)

Are you guys enjoying the videos? We realize that they might take a while to load for someone with slow internet connections. We're looking for ways to make this all more entertaining.

And of course if anyone has any ideas how we can make any money at it, we're all ears!

Well, to be accurate, Dooley is the only one who is largely ears, unless it's in a thunderstorm. Then he's mostly wide eyeballs and shivering fur that flinches at the slightest horrendous earth shattering crashing noise. The little wimp. I don't understand how he can face down five dogs that each outweigh him by fifty pounds, and yet turn totally useless at a flash of light a mile away.

I think I have just about run out of fresh photos for this week. La Gringa Suprema contines to keep her eye out for decent sunset photos. She got this one over the Juba Salina recently:



We've got plenty of ideas for some future posts. We still want to show you the 'trash beach' beach combing experience. Lots of fun stuff there. And we have yet to explore the Jacksonville ruins over by East Caicos, and Joe Grant Cay. Joe Grant has been in the local news again lately. Seems the government has recovered that island from development plans. Yee haaa! Way to go, TCIG!

Don't stop now.